The Batik Process

 

Batik is an art form practiced across many different cultures around the world, but it is most famously associated with Indonesia – and specifically, the island of Java.

Batik is a "wax resist" method of producing a pattern on fabric – the pattern is drawn or stamped onto fabric in wax, and then the material is dyed. This wax prevents dye from penetrating through to the fabric. Once dried, the fabric is boiled to wash away the wax, leaving the pattern in relief. This process can then be repeated several times for different colors; the process of making a particularly colorful piece of batik can take four or five dying, drying and boiling stages. 

There are a couple of methods for applying wax to the fabric. Batik can be hand-drawn, using a small wax pen called a canting, or it can be hand-stamped using a metal stamp called a cap. The two styles are also frequently combined; stamped batik is best for repeating patterns, and an artisan will later embellish these using a canting. 

In Indonesia, a "batik" refers to a single piece of batiked fabric, of roughly one by two meters. Traditionally, this would be worn as a sarong, but by the beginning of the 20th century they were commonly being made into western-style button-down shirts as well.

Since the arrival of inexpensive screenprinting processes in Indonesia, the batik industry has gone through several cycles of boom and bust. Government programs have periodically attempted to promote and encourage traditional batik production, to varying degrees of success; today, while batik is commonly worn in Indonesia, much of it is of the inexpensive machine-printed variety, and true wax-printed batik is reserved for special occasions.

Part of the beauty of batik is the way in which it represents Indonesia's uniquely multicultural heritage. Different regions and ethnic groups have their own distinctive batik patterns, merging the cultures that make up Indonesia itself: Javanese, Malay, Chinese, Indian, Middle Eastern and Dutch, and the cultures of the thousands of islands in the Indonesian archipelago. 

Because Batik is made by hand, its dyes tend to be less harsh than those used in other printing processes – but this means they can also be less colorfast, too. To care for your batik and ensure that it lasts for many years, please follow the instructions below.

• Many of the dyes used in batik production are traditional plant-based formulas. To keep your shirt looking fresh wear after wear, it's important to treat it with care. The best option is to hand-wash your shirt with shampoo, but in a pinch you can also wash it cold in a washing machine. Line drying is best.

• Each shirt is also made from a single handmade batik – so a little variation in the pattern is to be expected. You may even find a little wax on your shirt, left over from its last dying cycle. It will disappear after your first wash.